(Don’t sandwich them together yet ... You want them to be bright-tasting, but not dripping wet. Lay anchovy fillets (to taste) on top of melted cheese. Top with dressed chicory.

This is a cutlet sandwich. We use Locatelli Pecorino. The recipe for the Caesar [dressing] is Duke’s Mayo-based.” “Are there anchovies in it?” I asked. “Oh yes,” Neidhardt said.

Anchovies can be polarising, but finely chopped and mixed through the eggs they give an unexpected twist to this classic. This recipe is from Food for Good by Michael Meredith and Eat My Lunch ...