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“Ignore them at your peril.” Over time, dress codes have slowly relaxed, with the lines between white tie and black tie, semi-formal and cocktail blurring, adding further confusion.

Traditional black tie means a black tuxedo (or one in midnight blue—more on that shortly), a black bow tie, a white tuxedo shirt (more on that shortly, too), and black patent leather dress shoes.

Black dress shirts were once a punchline. Now? They're a chic celebrity favorite. Here's why—and how you can adopt the once-maligned look for yourself.

Travis Barker on the Grammys red carpet, Timothée Chalamet at the Oscars—risqué male stars keep wearing suits without any shirts underneath.

Black collared shirts have a tendency to overpower the suits or ties they're paired with and turn an already all-black look into a black hole of indecipherable menswear.