Biscuits can take a beating. They get shoved into paper fast-food bags, drowned in sausage gravy and yanked from refrigerated tubes with a jarring pop. They’re the workhorses of the American ...

I thought my three-onion chicken salad was a triumph. Red onions for their bite, scallions for their grassy brightness, pickled onions for a puckery jolt of acid. It had crunch, it had sharpness ...